How to Improve Skin Health & Appearance
Added: Jul 1, 2024
In this podcast episode, Andrew Huberman explores the science of skin health and appearance. He covers topics ranging from skin biology and sun exposure to nutrition, skincare routines, and common skin conditions, offering evidence-based insights and practical advice for maintaining healthy skin.
The Mirror of Overall Health
The skin is a complex and important organ that not only serves as a barrier but also reflects the overall health status of the body, including the brain. It has a direct relationship with the immune system. The skin consists of multiple layers - the outermost epidermis, the dermis below it, and subcutaneous fat underneath. The dermis contains blood vessels, nerve endings, and various cell types. Skin thickness and composition varies across different body parts. The skin also contains glands that produce oil (sebum) and hosts a microbiome of beneficial bacteria on its surface.
Sun Exposure and Sunscreen
There is ongoing debate about sun exposure and sunscreen use. While excessive sun exposure can cause certain skin cancers and accelerate skin aging, some sun exposure is beneficial for vitamin D production and overall health. UV light can penetrate the epidermis and cause DNA mutations that may lead to skin cancer. Longer wavelengths like red light can penetrate deeper into the skin.
Physical barriers like clothing provide good sun protection without controversy. For sunscreens, mineral-based options containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide up to 25% concentration are considered safe and effective. Chemical sunscreens that absorb UV light have more concerns about potential endocrine disruption, especially at high concentrations. Mineral sunscreens reflect UV light instead. Getting some sun exposure, especially in the morning and evening when UV is lower, is likely beneficial. Midday sun when UV index is high requires more caution and protection.
Skin Cancer
While sun exposure can increase risk of certain skin cancers, some of the most deadly skin cancers are not directly related to sun exposure. Basal cell carcinomas are common but less deadly. Melanomas often arise on non-mole skin. It's important to get regular skin checks by a dermatologist and monitor for any concerning changes. Laser resurfacing of skin may help reduce skin cancer risk by encouraging cell turnover.
Nutrition and Skin Health
An anti-inflammatory diet focused on whole, minimally processed foods is beneficial for skin health. This includes fruits, vegetables, healthy fats, and adequate protein. Specific nutrients that support skin health include omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin A, vitamin C, zinc, and collagen. Bone broth is a good source of collagen. Highly processed foods containing advanced glycation end products can be inflammatory and detrimental to skin. Excessive sugar and dairy intake may exacerbate acne for some people. Maintaining a healthy gut microbiome through fiber intake and fermented foods also supports skin health.
Lifestyle Factors
Getting adequate sleep, managing stress, staying hydrated, avoiding excessive alcohol, and not smoking are all important for skin health and appearance. Chronic stress and lack of sleep can negatively impact skin through increased inflammation and disrupted hormone balance. Smoking and nicotine use constrict blood vessels and accelerate skin aging.
Collagen and Skin Appearance
Supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen (5-15g per day) along with vitamin C may help improve skin elasticity and reduce wrinkles according to some studies. Collagen is a key structural protein in skin that declines with age. While the exact mechanism is unclear, ingested collagen peptides may be preferentially used to support skin collagen. Food sources of collagen like bone broth may also be beneficial.
Other Supplements for Skin Health
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) taken at 500mg twice daily can increase ceramide production in skin, improving moisture retention and potentially reducing inflammation. It may also help balance oil production and reduce appearance of large pores. Hyaluronic acid acts as a humectant to hold moisture in skin. Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives) can stimulate collagen production and cell turnover, but require caution during pregnancy.
Phototherapy for Skin
Red light and near-infrared light therapy may provide mild to moderate benefits for skin appearance and health. These wavelengths can penetrate into the dermis, potentially reducing inflammation, improving blood flow, and supporting mitochondrial function in skin cells. While more research is needed, consistent use of red light therapy appears promising for skin rejuvenation with minimal side effects.
Acne
Acne affects up to 90% of young people at some point. It involves excess sebum production, inflammation, and bacterial overgrowth in hair follicles. Hormones like testosterone and insulin play a role in stimulating sebum and skin cell growth. Diet can impact acne through effects on insulin and inflammation. Avoiding dairy, whey protein, and high glycemic foods may help some people. Gentle cleansing, avoiding picking, and using treatments with salicylic acid can help manage acne. Prescription medications may be needed for severe cases.
Rosacea
Rosacea causes facial redness and flushing. It may be exacerbated by alcohol, spicy foods, hot temperatures, and other triggers that dilate blood vessels. Managing triggers, using gentle skincare, sun protection, and moisturizing can help. Niacinamide and licorice root may provide some benefit. Stubborn cases may require prescription treatments or laser therapy to address visible blood vessels.
Psoriasis
Psoriasis is now understood to be an autoimmune condition rather than just overproduction of skin cells. It involves overactivation of certain immune system components like interleukin-17 and interleukin-23. Prescription medications targeting these pathways can be very effective. Managing overall inflammation through diet and lifestyle is also important.
Skincare Basics
A basic skincare routine should include gentle cleansing with lukewarm water, sun protection (mineral sunscreen SPF 30+), and moisturizing. Avoid harsh products, over-cleansing, and extreme water temperatures. Many expensive skincare products may not provide additional benefits beyond these basics. Consistency is key for any skincare regimen.
Experimental Treatments
Peptides like BPC-157 are being explored for potential skin benefits through increased blood flow and tissue repair. However, evidence in humans is still limited. Copper peptides may support collagen synthesis but excessive amounts can be pro-inflammatory. Use caution with experimental treatments and understand potential risks.
Conclusion
Skin health reflects overall health status and is impacted by nutrition, lifestyle, sun exposure, and skincare practices. A holistic approach addressing inflammation, supporting the skin barrier, and providing key nutrients can improve skin appearance and health. While there are many products and treatments available, focusing on the fundamentals of a healthy diet, stress management, sleep, gentle skincare, and sun protection provides a strong foundation. Consulting a dermatologist is important for addressing specific skin concerns and conditions. Ongoing research continues to expand our understanding of skin biology and potential interventions for various skin issues.